I always get asked "what's a good motherboard, hard drive, etc etc etc".  Instead of constantly giving the same answers, I am going to point people to this web page.  Unless otherwise noted, I use http://www.newegg.com for all items.
Last Updated:  3/12/10


General Items.


Case:  The #1 thing, is to get a good power supply with your case. Most of the power supplies that come with the $60 and under cases are total trash. Power users should accept the fact they will need to buy a separate power supply (scroll down to my power supply section).  Beyond that, its all a matter of preference.

Apex PC-375   Cheap ($40 ), half way decent power supply (see notes though), light weight and easy to mount stuff in.  Its not the most sturdy case in the world, and I would not run a gamer or high powered system on the included power supply, but if you need a cheap case thats not total crap, this should work well.  

(the power supply is only a 300 watt model.  Its pretty reliable for a basic system that does not draw a lot of juice, but if your system is going to do any real gaming, or serious number crunching, or anything above and beyond basic usage, I'd really consider buying a beefier power supply.  )

Cooler Master  Not real cheap (runs about $45-50 with NO power supply), but its lightweight, EXTREMELY well built, easy to work with, has excellent cooling fans AND is dead silent too.  A very high quality case.



Ram: Since prices on these change so quickly, its hard to give one or two good picks that will stay consistent.  Stay with decent manufacters and you shouldn't have problems. 

For DDR 2 type ram, cas 3 or 4 timings are nice but cas 5 stuff is usually a lot cheaper.  Unless you find a screaming good deal on low cas ram, or have money to burn, the cas 5 ram is fine.  Do not bother with cas 6 or higher DDR2 ram, its no cheaper then the cas 5 ram, and your definitely starting to lose performance at this point.  Do not waste money on the overclocker type DDR2 ram (thats anything thats above the official 800 mhz standard), its expensive and doesn't give you any real performance boost.

For DDR3 type ram, go with the 1333 mhz ram, cas 9 or better. Avoid the 1066 mhz stuff, its no cheaper and its definitely slower.   The faster stuff (above 1333) is NOT needed unless you are doing high end overclocking. 

For AMD systems, faster ram (above the standard DDR2-800 or DDR3-1333) is a total waste, and gains you nothing. 

Avoid DDR3 ram that has voltages higher then 1.6 like the plague.  The reason is that Intel follows the Jedec voltage standards carefully regarding the integrated memory controller(which btw is 1.5 for DDR3), and some of the super high voltage DDR3 ram (like the 1.8 stuff) is known for blowing out the memory controller on the processor.

One final warning.  Anyone running a 32 bit OS (like XP or Vista 32 bit versions) should be aware that of possible issues when trying to put 4 gigs or more of ram in their machine.  The reasons why are complicated, but here's some links explaining whats going on.  XP on 4 gigs is usually stable, but Vista in paticular can have REALLY nasty issues with 4 gigs of ram (assuming its Vista 32 bit version). Also, you will NOT get the full benefit of 4 gigs of ram due to technical limits, figure 3 gigs is all your OS will be able to access.  If your OS is 64 bit, stuff as much ram into the box as you desire (and the motherboard will handle).

Link 1
Link 2


In any case, I've posted a few links that should get you going the right way.

For 2x1 ( 2 gigabytes total)  DDR2 800 ram, click here     (matched set of 1 gigabyte sticks)

For 2x2 ( 4 gigabytes total)  DDR2 800 ram, click here     (matched set of 2 gigabyte sticks)



REMEMBER: AVOID DDR3 ram that is more then 1.6V - it can destroy an Intel I5 or I7 CPU's!!!!

For 2x1 (2 gigabytes total)  DDR3-1333 ram, click here    (matched set of 1 gigabyte sticks)

For 2x2 (4 gigabytes total)  DDR3-1333 ram, click here    (matched set of 2 gigabyte sticks)



Optical Drives:   Make sure you get the right interface on your optical drive for the motherboard you're sticking it on.  (In paticular, do NOT get pata drives for motherboards with Intel chipsets, see the motherboard section below for the reason why).  If in doubt, the sata drives should work on any system made in the last 4 years.

Optiarc 24x DVD burner (sata)  Gives excellent high quality burns    Newest firmware here or use newest Liggy firmware here.

LG 10x Blu-Ray burner (sata).  Seems to work good with all the media I've thrown at it, and my stand alone player plays all the burns back without issues.



Hard Drives: Size is up to you, usually the best bang for the buck is in the 640 gig to 1 terabyte range as of 9/09.

Samsung and Western Digital are the brands that seem to work best currently.  I would avoid the Samsung 1 terabyte drives though, there's a fair number of reports of compatibility issues, DOA's and drives dying soon after installation.  In the mean time, for WD drives, the black label series are some of the fastest and quietest drives on the market.

Seagate's (and Maxtor, which is just a Seagate brand) are noisier, and they've been having a lot of weird issues with firmware, so I'd generally avoid them.

For desktop drives, I would avoid the 200, 250, 320 , and 500 gig drives,as they use older and smaller platters, so they tend to be a bit slower, and not much cheaper.  Also, for desktop hard drives, avoid 5400rpm models at all cost, these are much slower then the standard 7200rpm models (for laptops, 5400rpm isn't horrible, but 7200rpm drives will be a fair amount faster for a tad bit more money).

Pata drives are pretty much dead, if your machine doesn't support Sata drives, its time for a new machine.
 
I haven't tested the newer Hitachi's very much, but their 1 terabyte models seem pretty good in limited testing. 

Samsung SATA drive list

Western Digital Black label SATA drive list
 (avoid any of the green or blue label drives, these are slower)

Western Digital laptop 7200rpm SATA drive list

Hitachi 1 Terabyte model SATA


Video Cards: The big question is, do you need serious 3d capabilities or not. People needing 3d capabilities (i.e. gamers) will need to buy much more expensive cards.  If your going to use Linux, Nvidia is the only good performance and compatibility choice (Ati's linux drivers are horrid). Performance wise, ATI and Nvidia tend to be fairly close depending on the model and price point. Avoid low end cards that have a cooling fan, it adds a lot of noise to your system and its just one more thing to die (believe me, video card fans blow up a LOT).

For people who aren't sure how powerful of a card they need....  Unless you play 3d rendered video games, there is ZERO reason to pay big bucks for a high end card.  You will NOT notice the difference between a $30 Nvidia 8400gs, and a $400 ATI 5970.  Even cad junkies will NOT see a difference.

For the vast majority of users or Linux geeks, the Nvidia 8400gs cards will be fine.

For people needing an HDMI port, the ATI 4350 is pretty damn cheap, and will run older / non complex games decently.  

For middle to high range gaming, the ATI 5750 provides excellent performance for around $140.  This should run almost any modern game at 1280x1024 (or even higher) with settings maxed (even games like Crysis).  A card with a fan is pretty much a requirement at this performance level, but stick with the better vendors (MSI, XFX, EVGA, etc) in case the fan goes kaboom.  Also, make sure you have a better quality power supply, as this card requires a 6pin power feed.  Finally, avoid the 512 megabyte models (vs the 1 gigabyte models), as you do lose some performance for very little cost savings.

Hard core gamers will be best served by researching recent articles on the current video cards, this just changes too quick to make firm recommendations. Anandtech usually has great reviews on the current stuff.  Above and beyond that, it hugely depends on what games you play and what your budget is.

All of the cards listed below (except the 5750 series) can be had in fanless versions.  

Nvidia Geforce 8400gs pci-express

ATI Radeon 4350 pci-express

ATI Radeon 5750 pci-express


Sound Cards:  Unless your a hard core gamer or audio freak, the onboard sound card in most modern motherboards is fine.  I used to recommend creative labs cards for gamers to get EAX api support, but creative has so badly butchered their cards and drivers lately, that they are not worth the trouble (most newer games are not bothering with EAX for this reason)   For audio purists, I'd suggest hitting some review sites, as I do not deal with music production level gear enough to make a good recommendation.  For gamers, unless you have a $200 plus speaker setup, just use the onboard.  For those who do have a serious speaker setup......

ASUS Xonar line  Untested, but the reviews have been excellent.  I'm not sure what advantages the more expensive cards have, so you will want to do some homework here.  Make sure to use the newest possible drivers.



Ethernet Cards:  Pretty much all modern motherboards come with this built in, but if you need to buy an extra card (for example: you want to upgrade to gigabit ethernet), virtually any of the gigabit cards will work fine.  Avoid the name brand stuff (like netgear, linksys, smc, etc etc etc) its usually just a rebadge of something else and you get charged triple the price for a fancy box plus you lose the ability to use the OEM's drivers (trust me, you WANT the OEM's drivers, the name brand guys use drivers that are usually 2-3 years out of date, and the cards are deliberately crippled so the OEM drivers will NOT work on them).  Even if you don't have a gigabit switch, don't bother buying 100 megabit cards, as gigabit nic's have pretty much reached 100 meg price levels and they have some features 100 meg cards lack such as auto-mdix.  

Finally, if you have a free 1x  pci-express slot, avoid the pci cards (which have lower throughput and higher cpu utilization) and get one of the pci-e cards instead.  All the recommended pci-e cards perform about the same if you're using up to date drivers, so no need to spend an insane amount of money for a better "name" card as long as its a good chipset.

Quick run down of recommended gigabit ethernet chipsets in case any of the following links is dead or you have a system with built in ethernet:

Pci bus - realtek 8169, intel pro1000

Pci-e bus - realtek 8168 /811X , broadcom 57xx series, marvell yukon series.
(probably good pci-e cards but untested currently - Via 61XX )

Realtek 8169 pci   Good transfer rates for pci based cards, great drivers.  The main negative is slightly higher cpu utilization compared to Intel's, but its also 1/3 the price of Intel.  Unless your sticking this into a VERY high powered file server (where you should be using a good quality onboard or pci-e gigabit in any case), there's no reason to buy more expensive pci cards.  If the linked card here isn't availible, any of the generic 8169 cards will work equally well.
Newest drivers here.

Intel Pro 1000 pci  Pricey, but the best pci gigabit nic (but NOT better then the pci-e cards), bar none.  Excellent cpu utilization, great driver support.
Newest drivers here.

Rosewill RC-411 pci-e  This is a pci-express realtek based nic.  Comes with a low profile bracket if you need to install it in a rack mount case.  Works great in Windows or Linux.
Newest drivers here.  

Rosewill RC-401-EX pci-e  This is a pci-express marvell based nic.  Also works great in Windows or Linux.  Do NOT get the RC-401 (non ex) card, its an agere chipset, and has driver issues.  
Newest drivers here.  


Modems:
   Or people still use these things ? : )  With broadband internet exploding in use the past few years, the need for a modem has dropped hugely.  However there are some poor souls who still need one.  Fortunately some of the cheap pci modems on the market have matured nicely and work pretty damn well.  My pick is any of the generic Agere chipset modems.  More expensive modems from USR aren't worth it any more (in fact the majority of USR models that now exist are junk), the modem wars of 1995 are long over.  Avoid modems with Conexant / Motorola / Netodragon chipsets if possible, the drivers tend to be sloppy.

Generic Agere 56k pci    After installing the drivers, make sure it doesn't autoload any cute bullshit apps. You may want to check windows update for a newer driver then the crap thats on the CD.



Power Supplies:  

With power supplies, there are 3 factors that matter.  1. Quality and reliability. 2.  How noisy it is.  3.  Does it provide enough amperage on the 12V side for a higher power system.  Non gamer systems usually do not need a super high end power supply, a good quality basic PS will work just fine.  Gamers or people with LOTS of high current sucking gadgets will need more amperage on the 12V rails.

For most users, the first or second power supply below should work just fine.  The 3rd and further picks are only needed if you are a power gamer or have a similar type high powered system.  Be careful what you buy, a lot of the cheap (even if they are "high watt" ) power supplies will cause major problems, especially under load.  When in doubt, its MUCH better to get a lower wattage power supply from a GOOD company then it is to get a super high watt from the Chinese supplier of the month.  A final word:  The overall wattage doesn't mean much, what you want in terms of power is how much amperage it can provide on the 12V side.

Some good manufacturers of power supplies are: Forton (FSP) / Sparkle , Enermax, Antec, PC power & cooling, Thermaltake, Cooler Master, Seasonic.  

Cooler Master 460 watt  Great inexpensive mid range class power supply.  Very low noise, and can power anything short of a high power gamer type rig.  Quiet, inexpensive, and will handle most uses. Also good as a replacement for older systems that blew a junk PS. Should handle most of the gamer cards.

Antec EA650 650 watt   Has 3 beefy 12V rails (22A, 22A, and 25A), so should be perfect for virtually any SLI setup.  People who are thinking of running a super high end video card (cards that generally cost more then $300) should consider this power supply.  Very low noise even under load.  






Motherboards and CPU's, the really fun part.

Intel bunny man burnt to death by heat output of the Pentium 4.

Preface:

If you're not a performance user, or you are trying to keep your costs low, AMD is a better choice right now.  Otherwise Intel is the way to go.  

Regarding motherboards with integrated video, do NOT use motherboards with Intel integrated graphics (or at the very least, get a separate video card).  Intel integrated graphics (and the drivers they use) are of such poor quality it will cause crashes with various programs, and actually slows the rest of the system down, even in normal every day tasks.  Stick with either Nvidia or ATI integrated video (if you want integrated video), or use a Pci-E video card outright.

One final cost consideration: all things being equal, good quality motherboards for Intel cpu's tend to cost more ($20-$40 extra) compared to a similar board for an AMD cpu.  Those trying to stay on a budget will want to keep that in mind.


Intel CPU recommendations
Avoid anything prior to the I3 / I5 / I7 series cpu's, anything else (from Intel) just isn't worth it cost wise.

Be aware that the current LGA 1156 heatsink mounts just BLOWS compared to the AMD AM2/AM3 type mount, and extreme caution should be used when working with it.  Just adding or removing a heatsink off a LGA socket can damage the socket or heatsink mounts unless you are extremely careful.  


Intel has 3 different platforms currently available.

Socket 775 with Core2 class processors - The now out of date Intel platform.  Its well proved, stable, but it's on the way out. Uses DDR2 or 3 ram depending on the board.  For new systems, I'd skip socket 775 and move on to socket 1156.

Socket 1356 with I7 Cpu class processors -  Extremely overpriced, but currently the highest performance option from Intel.  Generally NOT worth the money now that the I5 is out. Uses DDR3 ram.

Socket 1156 with I5 or I3 Cpu class processors  - This is the replacement platform for Socket 775.  The I5 class cpus are faster then the Core series, and are about the same cost (or better). Uses DDR3 ram.  Avoid the hyper expensive models and stay under $300.





Socket 775 Boards:
I'm only going to list one board, for people who have a dead socket 775 board and need a replacement.  For new machines or upgrades, keep on moving.

Gigabyte GA-EP45-UD3L  Based on the Intel P45 chipset.  Fairly cheap by Intel chipset standards.  Features are fairly vanilla, 6 sata ports, lots of pci-e slots, and the IO plate offers an impressive 8 usb ports. Ethernet and audio are both realtek, so no wierd drivers to be concerned about there.  The bios can be flashed right off a usb flash drive without needing to boot into dos (very handy!). Overclocking features appear to be very impressive as well.  Stability is excellent, even while overclocked during heavy gaming or dvd encoding.   This is my preferred board for Intel socket 775 cpu's.

Newest bios updates for this board can be found here.



Socket 1156 Boards:
These are fairly new, and should be fairly stable by now, but watch out for early bios revisions.  All of these boards are DDR3 only.  With the memory controller now on the processor, performance should be virtually identical for any Socket 1156 board.


Gigabyte GA-P55M-UD2   Micro-atx format, cheap cost (by 1156 standards).   Has 4 ram slots, 5 native sata ports (plus another 2 provided by a 3rd party controller), 10(!) rear usb ports, with 4 more usb ports on the motherboard itself.  Other features are firewire, e-sata, gigabit ethernet and realtek HD audio.  About the only apparent weakness of this board is no 1x pci-e slots, but there is 2 16x pci-e slots (with one being a 4x electrical), so this probably won't be much of an issue.  This board is currently untested.

Newest bios updates for this board can be found here.


Gigabyte GA-P55-USB3   Atx format, moderate cost (by 1156 standards).   Has 4 ram slots, 6 native sata ports (plus another 2 provided by a 3rd party controller), 10(!) rear usb ports, with 4 more usb ports on the motherboard itself, and 3 pci slots, 2 1x pci-e slot, and 2 16x (with one being 4x electrical) pci-e slots.  Other features are usb 3.0 support, gigabit ethernet and realtek HD audio.   This board is currently untested.

Newest bios updates for this board can be found here.



 


Amd CPU recommendations:
For budget machines, the AMD dual core cpu's are a great pick.  When possible, get the lower wattage model cpu's if they don't cost a lot more compared to the higher watt ones.   Rather then give direct links here, I am going to give a few suggestions, as pricing changes way too quick here to recommend certain model cpu's. 

AMD currently has two socket types in production.  Socket AM3 cpu's can use DDR3 or DDR2 ram, with the older Socket AM2 cpu's can only use DDR2.  An AM3 class cpu can plug into either AM3 or AM2 boards, but AM2 cpu's only work with AM2 boards.  So generally you'll want to buy an AM3 cpu, and an AM3 board if you want to run DDR3 ram, or an AM2 board if you want DDR2 ram.

With AMD cpu's, its generally not worth spending over $100, the Intel's is a better choice in the $100 and up range.  Avoid the 125 (and above) watt cpu's at all cost, there are LOTS of reports of various motherboards dying when these are used, plus these models generate a LOT a heat.  As a general rule, you want the 45nm models (or smaller), avoid the older 60 or 90nm ones.

Listing of dual core AMD cpu's

As always, do your homework and shopping, this isn't written in stone.  Most of programs currently out do NOT take advantage of a quad core cpu, so don't buy one expecting it to magically double your performance.  Unless an oem cpu is WAY cheaper compared to its retail brother, go with the retail cpu. 3 year warranty, and the retail heatsink/fans are pretty good quality.   As a final note, you can stick an AM3 class processor in an AM2+ board as long as the board has proper bios support.


Socket AM2+ and AM3 Boards:  The current mainstream boards for AMD cpu's, using DDR2 ram (for socket AM2) or DDR3 (for socket AM3).   Unless you have a bunch of DDR2 memory lying around and want to re-use it, go for the socket AM3 boards.  Currently the decent boards are using AMD/ ATI chipsets, with bottom feeders using just about anything else.  



GA-MA785GM-US2H   AM2+ socket, moderate cost.  Micro-atx format.  This board uses an ATI 785G chipset.  Feature set is excellent: 5 sata, 1 pata ports, gigabit ethernet, ATI integrated video with both DVI, VGA and HDMI outputs, 1 pci-e 16x (so you can add a normal video card if desired) and a 1x slot, and realtek 88X audio.  Also has firewire and e-sata.  Stability has been excellent.

Newest bios update here.


MSI 785GM-E65   AM3 socket, moderate cost.  Micro-atx format.  This board uses an ATI 785G chipset.  Feature set is excellent: 5 sata, 1 pata ports, gigabit ethernet, ATI integrated video (with 128 megabytes of onboard ram), and DVI, VGA and HDMI outputs.  Other features are  1 pci-e 16x (so you can add a normal video card if desired) and a 1x slot, and realtek 88X audio.  Also has e-sata and firewire.  Currently untested.

Newest bios update here.




Cpu Fans:   An often overlooked item, but one of the most critical.  I prefer quiet and RELIABLE fans that are still capable of keeping the cpu cool even at full load.  99% of the time I just use the retail fans as they meet my goals.  Hard core overclockers may want to check reviews at anandtech for fans that go above and beyond.

COOLER MASTER GeminII S  People who are overclocking their cpu's, but want to keep them cool and quiet will want to give this heatsink a shot.  Its a monster, a little spendy ($30ish), and a bit of a pain to install (you'll need to pull the board out of the case), but it works extremely well.  Make sure your motherboard has enough clearance around the socket (the gigabyte boards in the recommended section are fine).  I use this heatsink on a Core2 Quad thats clocked at 3.4ghz, and even when maxed out, the heatsink is barely warm.  This heatsink does NOT work on socket 1156 as far I can tell. 





Monitors
I'm blind, I'm blind! Oh wait, that's your old packard bell 14" .39dp monitor running at 1280x1024 60hz. :)  Monitors tend to be a major preference buy, as any of them will work with a semi-modern machine.   Super cheap LCD's usually aren't worth the loss in brightness and flexibility in scaling to smaller resolutions, and you can get decent 19" LCD's now for well under $200.  Whatever you get, make sure it supports DVI output (the older analog VGA connection will look blury compared to DVI).  Also, the bigger the screen size, the smaller text fonts will seem (due to the higher resolution mode these run in), so people who read a lot of text may find the really big LCD's to be ironically harder on their eyes then a 19" or 20" model.  CRT's are virtually impossible to find anymore, and the few I've seen floating around are not worth the trouble.   With that in mind, here are some of my picks.



Samsung LCD models
  generally some of the best LCD's on the market, and the pricing is very reasonable too.  I generally recommend a 22" or 23" model running 1680 x 1050. 


Odds and Ends
The junk you always forget to order and then you realize you really need it :)

Blank Cd's and Dvd's:  The media you need really depends on what burner you got.  In general, media from certain companies just seems to do a better job then no name junker blanks. You can often found cd and dvd blanks going for very low prices after rebates at various stores, but the brand and quality can vary radically.  When in doubt, name brand stuff from memorex, sony, fuji, and verbatim is usually pretty good quality.  Dailydeals is worth keeping an eye on for cheap media.  I personally prefer the following media myself.

Verbatim 100pack 16x DVD+R  Gives VERY high quality burns in most drives, and not much more expensive then the generic crap discs.

Verbtaim 100pack 52x CD-R     Gives VERY high quality burns in most drives, and not much more expensive then the generic crap discs. 


Speakers:  Or how to annoy the cr*p outta your roomates and neighbors : )  Usually name brand stuff from Logitech and Creative works nicely, though some of the name brands can be hugely over rated  and over priced.  Do your homework before buying anything thats mega bucks.

Logitech Z-5500 5.1 speakers  About the best speakers in their price range.  These are kick ass for gaming and movies. I use a set for my computer, and another set for my home theatre setup.   Pair them up with a quality sound card and bring ear plugs.

Logitech X-540 5.1 speakers   Not as high of a quality as the above speakers, but much much cheaper.  If your not looking for booming audio, and don't want to spend the money on a high end sound card, these are a perfect match for on board sound cards.  My old roommate has a pair of these, and they are great, especially for the price.


Keyboards and Mice:  This is a tricky area for recommendations, as everyone has their own preferences.  In general anything will work, but in general avoid wireless stuff, its usually expensive and not always reliable.  I tend to prefer aopen, samsung or fujitsu usb keyboards, and logitech or M$ optical mice.  But get whatever floats your boat.  Avoid installing funky keyboard software, its not required, and it just bogs down your system with autoloading garbage.

M$ optical rat   Simple, reliable, usb interface. What more do you want?  I used to recommend Logitech rats, but their software has gotten clumsy and a tad buggy, and the M$ ratware seems to be more user friendly.

Liteon usb keyboard  Cheap and boring, the way I like a keyboard.



 



Contact Me: support at btfh.net

( anyone stupid enough to spam the above address will get their entire isp firewalled )
( larts will be sent to your isp and spamcop, with a copy of the spam posted to spamcop )
( Don't believe me? See for yourself.  )