I always get asked "what's a good motherboard, hard drive, etc etc etc".  Instead of constantly giving the same answers, I am going to point people to this web page.  Unless otherwise noted, I use http://www.newegg.com for all items.
Last Updated:  12/11/08


General Items.


Case:  The #1 thing, is to get a good power supply with your case. Most of the power supplies that come with the $60 and under cases are total trash. Power users should accept the fact they will need to buy a separate power supply (scroll down to my power supply section).  Beyond that, its all a matter of preference.

Apex PC-375   Cheap ($40 ), half way decent power supply (see notes though), light weight and easy to mount stuff in.  Its not the most sturdy case in the world, and I would not run a gamer or high powered system on the included power supply, but if you need a cheap case thats not total crap, this should work well.  

(the power supply is only a 300 watt model.  Its pretty reliable for a basic system that does not draw a lot of juice, but if your system is going to do any real gaming, or serious number crunching, or anything above and beyond basic usage, I'd really consider buying a beefier power supply.  )

Cooler Master  Not real cheap (runs about $45-50 with NO power supply), but its lightweight, EXTREMELY well built, easy to work with, has excellent cooling fans AND is dead silent too.  A very high quality case.


Ram: Since prices on these change so quickly, its hard to give one or two good picks that will stay consistent.  Stay with decent manufacters and you shouldn't have problems.  For DDR 2 type ram, cas 3 or 4 timings are nice but cas 5 stuff is usually a lot cheaper.  Unless you find a screaming good deal on low cas ram, or have money to burn, the cas 5 ram is fine.  Do not bother with cas 6 or higher DDR2 ram, its no cheaper then the cas 5 ram, and your definitely starting to lose performance at this point.

Speed wise, unless you plan to overclock on a motherboard that does NOT give you the ability to control the ram speed, stick with the DDR2-800.  Intel Cpu's do not perform better when you use ram thats running much faster then the FSB runs at.  Generally you want your ram to be running at or just above double the speed of the FSB (speed being the non DDR speed of the bus, so a 1066 FSB is really 533, 1333 is 667, etc).  DDR2-1066 will only be useful if your using an intel chipset board and plan to overclock the cpu.  Even then, some of the intel boards (like the gigabyte in my recommended section) will give you some ability to control the ram speed when overclocking, so the 1066 stuff generally isn't needed.  

For AMD systems, faster ram (above the standard DDR2-800) is a total waste, and gains you nothing.
 
DDR 3 is slowly improving in price, but still not worth the money (as of 10/07/08, for 1 gig sticks, DDR3 is 3x - 4x times the price of DDR 2 - better then it was 6 months ago, but still very expensive). Nothing currently out (even the highly overclocked rigs) show any real improvement (less then 5% on standard gaming and application benchmarks) with DDR3 vs DDR2.  Avoid it for the next year or two until it either drops radically in price, or shows some useful performance improvement.  If you insist on going the DDR3 route, get the 1333 stuff, as the lower speed stuff is no cheaper.

One final warning.  Anyone running a 32 bit OS (like XP or Vista 32 bit versions) should be careful trying to put 4 gigs or more of ram in their machine.  The reasons why are complicated, but here's some links explaining whats going on.  Vista in paticular can have REALLY nasty issues with 4 gigs of ram (assuming its Vista 32 bit version).  Also, you will NOT get the full benefit of 4 gigs of ram due to technical limits, figure 3 gigs is all your OS will be able to access.  If your OS is 64 bit, stuff as much ram into the box as you desire (and the motherboard will handle).

Link 1
Link 2


In any case, I've posted a few links that should get you going the right way.

02/06/08 update:  DDR2 only - Currently 1 gig  sticks cost barely more then the 512 meg sticks, so even if your tight on cash, its silly to get the 512's.  

For 512 meg   DDR1 400 ram, click here

For 1 gigabyte DDR1 400 ram, click here

For 1 gigabyte DDR2 800 ram, click here

For 2 gigabyte DDR2 800 ram, click here

For 1 gigabyte DDR2-1066 ram, click here (only needed for certain types of overclocking)


Optical Drives:  I love liteon for CD burners and Dvd readers, but their Dvd Recorders have been a let down.  If your looking for a firmware upgrade and one of the below links doesn't work, check here.  Make sure you get the right interface on your optical drive for the motherboard you're sticking it on.  (In paticular, do NOT get pata drives for motherboards with Intel chipsets, see the motherboard section below for the reason why).  If in doubt, the sata drives should work on any system made in the last 2-3 years.

Nec Dvd+RW 7220 (pata)  The best dvd burner on the market.  Cheap, dual layer, 20X, and writes very high quality burns.  Newest firmware here  (use liggy's rpc1 firmware)

Nec Dvd+RW 7220 (sata)  same drive as above, but with a Sata interface. Newest firmware here  (use liggy's rpc1 firmware)

Liteon 16D3P (pata)  One of the best dvd readers.  Check here for newest firmware.   

Liteon 16D3S (sata)  One of the best dvd readers.  Check here for newest firmware.   


Hard Drives: Size is up to you, usually the best bang for the buck is in the 500-750 gig range as of 7/08.  I prefer most of the Samsung brand hard drives due to their near silent noise level, reliability, and low prices.  At the moment, I would avoid the Samsung 1 terabyte drives, there's a fair number of reports of compatibility issues, DOA's and drives dying soon after installation.  I've also personally seen compatibility issues with the Samsung 750 and up drives on some Nvidia motherboards, looks like the old NCQ bug has struck Nvidia again.  Disabling NCQ on these boards seems to fix the issue with this class of hard drives, but Samsung and Nvidia need to address this with a firmware fix.  In the mean time, WD is a better pick for large (750+ gig) drives if you have an Nvidia board (Intel / AMD chipset boards should be fine with the samsung 750's).

Seagate's seem to be rather noisy lately with their seeks, so my 2nd pick is Western Digital if you can't get a Samsung (or need a 750+ gig drive). For the 750+ gig drives, the WD SE16 / RE16 / RE2 / RE3  series (avoid the GP or Green series, they are slower) is the way to go.  

I would avoid the 200, 250, and 320 gig drives,as they use older and smaller platters, so they tend to be a bit slower, and not much cheaper.  Also, for desktop hard drives, avoid 5400rpm models at all cost, these are much slower then the standard 7200rpm models (for laptops, 5400rpm is ok).

Pata drives are on the way out, and I would only get one if the motherboard didn't support SATA.  
 
Finally, I generally avoid most Hitachi drives due to the foul taste the GXP 75 series left in my mouth - a series of hard drives so horribly unreliable it spawned a class action lawsuit due to the huge failure rate and the horribly pathetic customer support that the GXP 75 exposed.  To be fair to Hitachi, their newer drives have seemed to be far more reliable, but it will be a while before I fully trust them again.

Samsung SATA drive list

Western Digital SATA drive list
(make sure to avoid the GP and Green series due to poor performance)





Video Cards: The big question is, do you need serious 3d capabilities or not. People needing 3d capabilities (i.e. gamers) will need to buy much more expensive cards.  If your going to use Linux, Nvidia is the only good performance and compatibility choice (Ati's linux drivers are horrid). Performance wise, ATI and Nvidia tend to be fairly close depending on the model and price point. Avoid low end cards that have a cooling fan, it adds a lot of noise to your system and its just one more thing to die (believe me, video card fans blow up a LOT).

For non 3d gamers and the vast majority of users, the  Nvidia 7200gs cards will be fine.

For light gaming use and really hard core Photoshop type users, the ATI 4350 is pretty damn cheap, and will run older / non complex games decently.  

For mid range gaming, the ATI 4670 will do pretty good for around $80.  A card with a fan isn't a bad idea at this performance level, but stick with the better vendors (MSI, XFX, EVGA, etc) in case the fan goes kaboom.  If you go fanless on the 4670 (assuming one is even made), make sure you have a good case (like the Cooler Master I recommended) that ventilates well.

Hard core gamers will be best served by researching recent articles on the current video cards, this just changes too quick to make firm recommendations. Anandtech usually has great reviews on the current stuff.  Above and beyond that, it hugely depends on what games you play and what your budget is.

All of the cards listed below can be had in fanless versions.  

Nvidia Geforce 7200gs pci-express

ATI Radeon 4350 pci-express

ATI Radeon 4670 pci-express


Sound Cards:  Unless your a hard core gamer or audio freak, the onboard sound card in most modern motherboards is fine.  I used to recommend creative labs cards for gamers to get EAX api support, but creative has so badly butchered their cards and drivers lately, that they are not worth the trouble (most newer games are not bothering with EAX for this reason)   For audio purists, I'd suggest hitting some review sites, as I do not deal with music production level gear enough to make a good recommendation.  For gamers, unless you have a $200 plus speaker setup, just use the onboard.  For those who do have a serious speaker setup......

ASUS Xonar line  Untested, but the reviews have been excellent.  I'm not sure what advantages the more expensive card has, so you will want to do some homework here.  Make sure to use the newest possible drivers.



Ethernet Cards:  Pretty much all modern motherboards come with this built in, but if you need to buy an extra card (for example: you want to upgrade to gigabit ethernet), virtually any of the gigabit cards will work fine.  Avoid the name brand stuff (like netgear, linksys, smc, etc etc etc) its usually just a rebadge of something else and you get charged triple the price for a fancy box plus you lose the ability to use the OEM's drivers (trust me, you WANT the OEM's drivers, the name brand guys use drivers that are usually 2-3 years out of date, and the cards are crippled so the OEM drivers will NOT work on them).  Even if you don't have a gigabit switch, don't bother buying 100 megabit cards, as gigabit nic's have pretty much reached 100 meg price levels and they have some features 100 meg cards lack such as auto-mdix.  Finally, if you have pci-express slots, avoid the pci cards (which have lower throughput and higher cpu utilization) and get one of the pci-e cards instead.  All the recommended pci-e cards perform about the same if you're using up to date drivers, so no need to spend an insane amount of money for a better "name" card as long as its a good chipset.

Quick run down of recommended gigabit ethernet chipsets in case any of the following links is dead or you have a system with built in ethernet:

Pci bus - realtek 8169, intel pro1000
Pci-e bus - realtek 8168 /811X , broadcom 57xx series, marvell yukon series.
(probably good pci-e cards but untested currently - Via 61XX and Intel gigabit cards)

Realtek 8169 pci   Good transfer rates for pci based cards, great drivers.  The main negative is slightly higher cpu utilization compared to Intel's, but its also 1/2 the price of Intel.  Unless your sticking this into a VERY high powered file server (where you should be using a good quality onboard or pci-e gigabit in any case), there's no reason to buy more expensive pci cards.  If the linked card here isn't availible, any of the generic 8169 cards will work equally well.
Newest drivers here.

Intel Pro 1000 pci  Pricey, but the best pci gigabit nic (but NOT better then the pci-e cards), bar none.  Excellent cpu utilization, great driver support.
Newest drivers here.

Rosewill RC-411 pci-e   This is a pci-express realtek based nic.  Comes with a low profile bracket if you need to install it in a rack mount case.  Works great in Windows or Linux.
Newest drivers here.  

Rosewill RC-401-EX pci-e    This is a pci-express marvell based nic.  Also works great in Windows or Linux.  Do NOT get the RC-401 (non ex) card, its an agere chipset, and has driver issues.  
Newest drivers here.  

Modems:
   Or people still use these things ? : )  With broadband internet exploding in use the past few years, the need for a modem has dropped hugely.  However there are some poor souls who still need one.  Fortunately some of the cheap pci modems on the market have matured nicely and work pretty damn well.  My pick is any of the generic Agere chipset modems.  More expensive modems from USR aren't worth it any more (in fact the majority of USR models that now exist are junk), the modem wars of 1995 are long over.  Avoid modems with Conexant / Motorola / Netodragon chipsets if possible, the drivers tend to be sloppy.

Generic Agere 56k pci    After installing the drivers, make sure it doesn't autoload any cute bullshit apps. You may want to check windows update for a newer driver then the crap thats on the CD.


Power Supplies:  

With power supplies, there are 3 factors that matter.  1. Quality and reliability. 2.  How noisy it is.  3.  Does it provide enough amperage on the 12V side for a higher power system.  Non gamer systems usually do not need a super high end power supply, a good quality basic PS will work just fine.  Gamers or people with LOTS of high current sucking gadgets will need more amperage on the 12V rails.

For most users, the first or second power supply below should work just fine.  The 3rd and further picks are only needed if you are a power gamer or have a similar type high powered system.  Be careful what you buy, a lot of the cheap (even if they are "high watt" ) power supplies will cause major problems, especially under load.  When in doubt, its MUCH better to get a lower wattage power supply from a GOOD company then it is to get a super high watt from the Chinese supplier of the month.  A final word:  The overall wattage doesn't mean much, what you want in terms of power is how much amperage it can provide on the 12V side.

Some good manufacturers of power supplies are: Forton (FSP) / Sparkle , Enermax, Antec, PC power & cooling, Thermaltake, Cooler Master, Seasonic.  

Sparkle 350 watt  Perfect for moderate power systems.  Quiet, reliable, and will handle anything up to lower powered gamer rigs just fine.  A good replacement for older systems that blew a junk PS.

Fortron (FSP) 400 watt  Great mid to upper type power supply.  Very low noise, and can power anything short of a hard core gamer type rig.  Should be enough for 99.9% of computers out there. We use these at work (including lots of Amd 4600 X2's and Core 2's with 2-4 gigs of ram and Nvidia 8600GT's ), and they have been very reliable.  Non gamers with VERY high power draw cpu's (anything that wants more than 100 watts, like the Phenom's) should go with this model as their base power supply.  This is one of my prefered picks for reliability due to the fact we have over 100 of these deployed at work, and it's VERY rare for one to die.

Antec EA650 650 watt   Has 3 beefy 12V rails (22A, 22A, and 25A), so should be perfect for virtually any SLI setup.  People who are thinking of running a high end video card ($300 and up range) thats really power hungry should consider this power supply.  Very low noise even under load.  

PC Power & Cooling 750W  Total, massive overkill (one big honking 60A 12V rail) for anyone who doesn't have an extremely high end SLI setup with multiple hard drives and top of the line cpu(s), etc etc etc. But if that describes you, this will handle the job.  The large single 12V rail is perfect for servers with an insane number of hard drives.




Motherboards and CPU's, the really fun part.

Intel bunny man burnt to death by heat output of the Pentium 4.

Preface:

If your not a performance user, or you are trying to keep your costs low, AMD is a better choice right now.  Otherwise Intel with it's Core 2 is the way to go.  

Regarding motherboards with integrated video, do NOT use motherboards with Intel integrated graphics (or at the very least, get a separate video card).  Intel integrated graphics (and the drivers they use) are of such poor quality it can cause crashes with various programs, and actually slows the rest of the system down, even in normal every day tasks.  Stick with either Nvidia or ATI integrated video (if you want integrated video), or use a Pci-E video card outright.

One final cost consideration: all things being equal, good quality motherboards for Intel cpu's tend to cost more ($30-$50 extra) compared to a similar board for an AMD cpu.  Those trying to stay on a budget will want to keep that in mind.

Intel CPU recommendations
Totally avoid the Intel P4 (and Pentium D variant) cpu's, they are very old, run way too hot, and cost too much for the price/ performance level (a $50 AMD X2 will blow em out of the water and run much cooler to boot). The Celeron Conroe and Pentium E variants aren't horrible, but AMD cpu's at the same price point tend to perform a tad better, so for budget users you are much better off looking at AMD.

Be aware that the current LGA 775 heatsink mounts just BLOWS compared to the AMD AM2, and extreme caution should be used when working with it.  Just adding or removing a heatsink off a LGA 775 socket can damage the socket or heatsink mounts unless you are extremely careful.  

The good news is that Intel has released the Core 2 Duo's(and Quad core versions as well), which are a HUGE improvement over the piss poor Pentium 4/D designs.  Core 2 also has HUGE overclocking capabilities, as good as if not better then the original Celeron's 8-9 years ago.  The one negative issue to be aware of is that Core 2 still uses the LGA 775 socket, which as mentioned above, utterly sucks.  If you get a Core 2, my suggestion is to avoid the super high end motherboards (the over $150 crowd), as these are usually loaded with piles of features that very few people actually use.  

With the Intel cpu's, go for the 45nm variants, these generate far less heat compared to the older 65nm versions.

The current best bang for the buck as of 8/05/08 is the E8500, which is a 3.16 ghz native cpu with 6 meg cache.  These can often be pushed well past 3.5ghz on the right board with standard cooling and no extra voltage.  Current price is about $185.  The higher end Core 2's (including the "Extreme" crap models) aren't worth the price, they are not much faster then E8500, and cost double or worse.

For people doing extreme number crunching (video and 3d editing, some scientific computing, high end linux servers, very intensive compiling) that is multi threaded, the quad core series starting at  $200ish and up is a very interesting option.  Most users including gamers will not be well served by the quad core (most applications and games are not threaded well enough to use it), but for the type of users listed above, its never been easier or cheaper to have an insane amount of power in a desktop box.

12/11/08 update:
The new Intel Core i7 cpu looks very interesting from a performance and technology point of view, but is still VERY new, and rather pricey.  The motherboards that have been released for it are extremely overpriced and immature at this time.  Unless money is no object, I would avoid this platform for the next 6 months or so until it becomes more mature and price effective.

Socket 775 Boards:
The best choices in motherboards use either a Nvidia or Intel chipset.  Be advised that Intel in one of the most idiotic chipset / platform decisions in years (probably the worst since the early 8xx series fiascoes) decided to NOT include ANY native pata channels on their current ICH8 / ICH9 / ICH10 southbridges for the Core 2, forcing all the Intel chipset MB oem's to use 3rd party controllers (and these usually have lots of performance and compatibility issues) to provide this functionality.  If you go with an Intel chipset, MAKE SURE to ONLY use sata hard drives and have at least one sata optical drive.  If you have additional pata optical drives, its usually safe to stick them on the 3rd party controller.

Performance on the Nvidia solutions appears to be decent, so for people who are unwilling to give up their PATA hard drives, this may be the best option for a Core 2.  The Nvidia boards do occasionally have wierd NCQ problems with some hard drives (see the hard drive section above for details), so be prepared to disable NCQ if you run into issues.  A file that makes disabling NCQ easy is here.  

If you're not sure if the Nvidia or Intel based boards would be better for you,  I'd recommend the Intel chipsets as long as you do not need native pata support or plan to run Nvidia video cards in SLI (which requires an Nvidia board).  My reason for this is that the Intel chipset drivers are a bit more polished and better supported compared to Nvidia's chipset drivers.  People planning to run server versions of Windows (like Windows Server 2003, 2008, etc) should definitely stay with Intel based boards due to Nvidia's refusal to properly support these OS's (you can sometimes get the XP drivers to work on the server variants, but its a pain, and there's no reason for Nvidia to not support them, its just plain laziness on their part)  Also, the Nvidia sata controller can occasionally show weird bugs on some hard drives, whereas the Intel sata controller is pretty solid.

Try to make sure your board has official 1333 bus speed support (and not just the cheezy "OC" support).  Many of the newer Intel cpu's require this.  Avoid older chipsets that don't support this (like any of the Intel chipsets prior to the P35 series).  As a final note, avoid the DDR3 only boards at this time. There is little or no real world performance gain with these boards or ram, and DDR3 sticks are quite a bit more expensive compared to DDR2 (see the ram section above).  

MSI P7N SLI   Based on the Nvidia 750 chipset.  Moderate cost.  Feature wise, you get average IO plate options, 2 pata ports that are fully compatible (unlike the Intel 3rd party pata controllers), firewire, and some rather impressive passive cooling heatsinks on the board.  Users who have a lot of old pata devices they don't want to give up, or people wishing to use Nvidia video cards in SLI mode will want to consider this board.  This board is currently untested at the moment.

Newest bios update for this board can be found here.  


Gigabyte GA-EP45-DS3L  Based on the Intel P45 chipset.  Fairly cheap by intel chipset standards.  Features are fairly vanilla, 6 sata ports, lots of pci-e slots, and the IO plate offers an impressive 8 usb ports. Ethernet and audio are both realtek, so no wierd drivers to be concerned about there.  The bios can be flashed right off a usb flash drive without needing to boot into dos (very handy!). Overclocking features appear to be very impressive as well.  Stability is excellent, even while overclocked during heavy gaming or dvd encoding.   One minor caveat, the early bios revisions were QUITE buggy, so make sure to flash your bios to the newest version when you get this board.  

Newest bios updates for this board can be found here.


GIGABYTE GA-EP45-UD3R  If you need firewire, this board is virtually identical to the above board, except it includes firewire as well.  The heatsink cooling is slightly improved as well.  Usually runs about $10-15 more then the non firewire variant.  Untested at the moment, but should be no different (other then the firewire) compared to the above model.

Newest bios updates for this board can be found here.






Amd CPU recommendations:
For building a new AMD rig, your best bet is the AM2+ socket.  There's no reason to touch Socket A, 754, or 939 anymore. When possible, get the lower wattage model cpu's if they don't cost a lot more compared to the higher watt ones.   Rather then give direct links here, I am going to give a few suggestions, as pricing changes way too quick here to recommend certain model cpu's.  With AMD cpu's, its generally not worth spending over $100, the Intel Core 2 is a better choice in the $100 and up range.  Avoid the 125 (and above) watt cpu's at all cost, there are LOTS of reports of various motherboards dying when these are used, plus these models generate a LOT a heat.  As always, do your homework and shopping, this isn't written in stone.   Avoid the pre B3 stepping Phenom's, they have a REALLY nasty bug in them that cripples performance.  Most of programs currently out do NOT take advantage of a quad core cpu, so don't buy one expecting it to magically double your performance.  Unless an oem cpu is WAY cheaper compared to its retail brother, go with the retail cpu. 3 year warranty, and the retail heatsink/fans are pretty good quality. 


Socket AM2+ Boards:  The current mainstream boards for AMD cpu's, using DDR 2 ram.  Currently the decent boards are using Nforce or AMD/ ATI chipsets, with bottom feeders using just about anything else.   There are a lot of new boards out using various AMD/ ATI chipsets that are AM2+ compatible.  These seem to work pretty good.  

The Nvidia boards do occasionally have wierd NCQ problems with some hard drives (see the hard drive section above for details), so be prepared to disable NCQ if you run into issues.  A file that makes disabling NCQ easy is here.

MSI K9N2G Neo-FD   Moderate cost.  This board uses an Nvidia chipset.  Feature set is excellent: 6 sata, 1 pata ports, gigabit ethernet, nvidia integrated video with both DVI and VGA outputs, pci-e 16x (so you can add a normal video card if desired) and 2 1x slots, and realtek 88X audio.  Also has firewire, but does NOT include a header port on the IO shield or even add-on cable, so its rather useless unless your case has a firewire cable connector included.  Appears stable in limited testing.

Newest bios update here.

MSI K9N2GM-FD Moderate cost.  Micro-atx format.  This board uses an Nvidia chipset.  Virtually identical to the above board, but in Micro-atx format and fewer pci-e and pci slots.  Also a bit cheaper as well.  This board is untested at the moment.

Newest bios update: here.

MSI K9A2VM-FD    Moderate cost.  Micro-atx format. Almost identical to the above board, except it uses an ATI chipset and video, and only has 4 sata ports.  People who do not trust Nvidia chipsets will find this board a good pick. Untested as of yet.

No direct bios link, use the stupid MSI liveupdate tool to update bios (then uninstall the crapware afterwards).


Cpu Fans:   An often overlooked item, but one of the most critical.  I prefer quiet and RELIABLE fans that are still capable of keeping the cpu cool even at full load.  99% of the time I just use the retail fans as they meet my goals.  Hard core overclockers may want to check reviews at anandtech for fans that go above and beyond.



Monitors
I'm blind, I'm blind! Oh wait, that's your old packard bell 14" .39dp monitor running at 1280x1024 60hz. :)  Monitors tend to be a major preference buy, as any of them will work with a semi-modern machine.   Super cheap LCD's usually aren't worth the loss in brightness and flexibility in scaling to smaller resolutions, and you can get decent 19" LCD's now for well under $300.  Whatever you get, make sure it supports DVI output (the older analog VGA connection will look blury compared to DVI).   In general, avoid the widescreen mode LCD's, they run at wierd resolutions and tend to make some games and graphics look like crap (though if your looking for a 22" and larger, you don't have much of a choice).  Also, the bigger the screen size, the smaller text fonts will seem (due to the higher resolution mode these run in), so people who read a lot of text may find the really big LCD's to be ironically harder on their eyes then a 19" or 20" model.  CRT's are virtually impossible to find anymore, and the few I've seen floating around are not worth the trouble.   With that in mind, here are some of my picks.


Dell 1908FP 19" LCD  The best 19" LCD I've personally seen.  Not super cheap, but worth it.  The shipping is usually free, which makes it a better bargain.   Keep an eye on Dailydeals, they often have specials on these.

Samsung 943BX 19" LCD
 Just as good as the above monitor, and sometimes a little bit cheaper.


Odds and Ends
The junk you always forget to order and then you realize you really need it :)

Blank Cd's and Dvd's:  The media you need really depends on what burner you got.  In general, media from certain companies just seems to do a better job then no name junker blanks. You can often found cd and dvd blanks going for very low prices after rebates at various stores, but the brand and quality can vary radically.  When in doubt, name brand stuff from memorex, sony, fuji, and verbatim is usually pretty good quality.  Dailydeals is worth keeping an eye on for cheap media.  I personally prefer the following media myself.

Verbatim 100pack 16x DVD+R  Gives VERY high quality burns in most drives, and not much more expensive then the generic crap discs.

Verbtaim 100pack 52x CD-R     Gives VERY high quality burns in most drives, and not much more expensive then the generic crap discs. 


Speakers:  Or how to annoy the cr*p outta your roomates and neighbors : )  Usually name brand stuff from Logitech and Creative works nicely, though some of the name brands can be hugely over rated  and over priced.  Do your homework before buying anything thats mega bucks.

Logitech Z-5500 5.1 speakers  About the best speakers in their price range.  These are kick ass for gaming and movies. I use a set for my computer, and another set for my home theatre setup.   Pair them up with a quality sound card and bring ear plugs.

Logitech X-540 5.1 speakers   Not as high of a quality as the above speakers, but much much cheaper.  If your not looking for booming audio, and don't want to spend the money on a high end sound card, these are a perfect match for on board sound cards.  My old roommate has a pair of these, and they are great, especially for the price.


Keyboards and Mice:  This is a tricky area for recommendations, as everyone has their own preferences.  In general anything will work, but avoid wireless stuff, its expensive and not always reliable.  I tend to prefer aopen, samsung or fujitsu usb keyboards, and logitech or M$ optical mice.  But get whatever floats your boat.  Avoid installing funky keyboard software, its not required, and it just bogs down your system with autoloading garbage.

M$ optical rat   Simple, reliable, usb interface. What more do you want?  I used to recommend Logitech rats, but their software has gotten clumsy and a tad buggy, and the M$ ratware seems to be more user friendly.

Liteon usb keyboard  Cheap and boring, the way I like a keyboard.



 



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